Reclamation of Embroidery as a symbol: Female Suppression to Expression

By: Ishaanvi Shah

Embroidery has a prominent history as a sexist artform. The very action of embroidering- involving hunched backs, lowered gazes, and small delicate movements- resembles a patriarchal woman. A woman who is conditioned into being submissive, easily pliable and domestic (Katherine Grayson). In England during the 18th century, needlework was a skill that symbolized social standing, marked the transition into womanhood and was considered as a prime quality in a suitable wife.

Portrait of a young woman doing embroidery attributed to Jean-François Garneray, 18th century.

Source: https://www.invitinghistory.com/2017/05/10-portraits-of-18th-century-women.html

Even today, embroidery isn't completely regarded with the same esteem as other artforms, like canvas painting. The barrier between art, and craft (the category embroidery falls under) is something that seems to vaguely unnerve many embroidery artists. This distinction, or maybe stratum, finds its roots in gender roles.

There is a hierarchy in the arts: decorative art at the bottom, and the human form at the top. Because we are men. - Le Corbusier and Amédée Ozenfant, 1918

With the looming dampener that is Covid19, many of us have been driven into picking up hobbies that we would never have otherwise considered. Among many, embroidery has popularised and found itself a strong niche community within social media. A prominent subsection of this niche is feminist embroidery.

The reclamation of embroidery from a symbol of suppression to a symbol of expression, and even celebration, is emblematic of the progress that has been made in regards to female rights, and the extraordinary endurance and strength of women in our history.

Here are some I stumbled upon (while admittedly falling down instagram rabbit holes):

And a personal favourite:

I want to end this entry by bringing to your attention a quote from an evocative article by E. Tammy Kim from The New York Times (scroll down to the links to read the whole article)

"Even when the design at hand has no straightforward message, the act of embroidery can feel transgressive in its silence and domesticity. It is a haven from news whorls and internet noise, a return to a female tradition when our bodies and minds feel so keenly under assault"

Further reading :

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/29/opinion/sunday/feminist-embroidery-korea.html

https://harpymagazine.com/home-1/2021/4/7/the-art-of-embroidery-feminist-expression

https://sayitwithstitches.net/the-history-of-embroidery/

https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/papevm/how-women-are-changing-the-world-with-textiles

https://contingentmagazine.org/2019/11/19/embroidery/

https://cools.com/feminist-embroidery

https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/eascfa/dinner_party/womens_work

https://womenyoushouldknow.net/feminist-embroidery/

https://www.bustle.com/p/how-feminist-cross-stitching-became-a-tool-of-the-resistance-2448280